Thursday, May 16, 2013

Silver Leafed Chima

My latest project is a silver leafed Chima to go with my bad ass Korean outfit for Crown Lyst.

A Chima is a wrap around skirt that wraps around the chest. Modern Chima have straps but for this one I am not adding them.  I am going to make the Chima full length even though it is a secondary skirt so that I can wear it later.  I will just pin the front up so you can see the Red Gold Leaf Chima that will be under it.  

This is a Cobalt Silk Chima.  The silk I obtain from Silk Baron.  Love the Silk Baron, he has wonderful colors that are 54" wide.   

I use cotton for the dress band and Chima ties.  Once I have cut those out, I then pleat my silk.... and pleat.... and pleat..... and pinning the silk to the dress band.

  

  Once I did that I sew the pleats down to the dress band.  I then sewed the dress ties to the band.

 
 

Once the band and ties are attached I hand stitch the raw edges down. Then the fun part.  Silver leafing.  I use a modern gold and silver leafing kit that is designed for fabric from Laura Murray Designs.  The kit comes with directions on line.

   

 I used a stencil for this one.  The adhesive is thick and you will have to play around to get the right amount on.  It also helps not to be rushed like I am.  He waited until the last minute to tell me he felt like fighting..... men.  :P

Once the adhesive is dry, you lay the leaf over it and iron on.  I use parchment paper or a paper towel then iron.   Rub hard or the leaf wont stick! 

When the leaf has cooled carefully peal it back.  

  
I had some issues with the stencil - I usually like painting it on but ..... I had short notice.  :)  Love my man.  

Update:
The finished product:

 







Wednesday, May 8, 2013

Phoenix Jeogori

I am making a new Hanbok!  It will be a 100% cotton with a black Chima and Phoenix Jeogori.

[Going to publish this I will be updating as I finish the project so check back soon]  

The phoenix fabric is not period because it is too modern and busy.  But it is pretty! And we all LOVE looking pretty don't we! :)



From what I have learned so far the phoenix more than likely would have been embroidered (Chasu) or gold/silver leafed unto fabric.   Also the phoenix and dragon design were restricted to Royalty during the reign of Chongjons in 1043.

But enough of history - onto pretty.

Because I wanted to display the full phoenix image, I obtain an extra yard of the phoenix fabric.  Also I knew - just knew - I would cut the Jeogori wrong and get my left and right sides switched.  Which I did!  ;)  I cut my lining fabric a little longer this time to account for the full image. I lined the body so you cannot see the negative of the printed image.  It also gives the Jeogori weight which helps it lay correctly.



  


For the collar I used a medium weight craft interfacing which I still doubled up.  This makes the collar a nice and stiff and gives you a beautiful triangle at the neck.  Sewing the liner onto the Jeogori is always tricky for me but this time I think I did ok.  

  

   



I like hand finishing my Jeogori and Chima - it just looks better.  I use a simple hem stitch to flat felled the raw edges.  I recommend that you somehow finish the edges on the inside of you clothes.  This will help them last longer.


 

 Almost done!